Layering 101
Staying comfy in all conditions
Like death and taxes, changeable weather happens. If you are out pushing the aerobic limits, keeping comfortable can be a challenge, unless you understand the finer points of layering. The theory behind layering suggests that as your body temperature fluctuates or the weather shifts, you simply peel off or add available layers as needed. Simple? Well...it used to be until manufacturers introduced so many confounded layer thicknesses and fabric weaves to the mix. Like a set of Ginsu knives, some of these wild fabric concoctions will do just about anything including shed wind, wick away moisture, keep you warm, keep you cool and even dice a carrot--well, maybe that's stretching it, but not by much
While the basic concept of beginning with a base layer, then adding insulative layers as needed and topping it all off with a protective layer to shed wind and rain still holds, the lines between the categories have definitely become fuzzy.
Where underwear ends and outerwear begins is no longer clear. Today's designs go both ways just as easily. With all the different blends of synthetic fibers and fabrics, as well as different weights (most common are lightweight, mid-weight, expedition weight), the aerobically inclined can turn to one, two or more layers of underwear to accomplish their layering needs. Some creative weaves and constructions even offer wind-stopping properties, usually sewn or woven into the front panels--ideal for sports such as skiing and mountain biking when speed and wind can accelerate thermal loss and lead to chilling.
Bicomponent knits, polyester / cotton blends work to provide wicking and insulative properties in one layer--the side facing your skin is water-hating with the side away from your skin being water-loving and pulling moisture through. You'll stay dry and happy, even with only one layer on, something not possible with old single-function weaves.
Stretch fleece and microdenier pile provide cross-over applications too, working equally well as base layers or for around-town sweaters or functional insulative add-ons for cross-training needs. I love microdenier pile as it can be worn alone or layered under or over other pieces and it has excellent wicking capability as well as more windproof potential than basic expedition weight layers.
Even that most important of fabrics to runners and bladers, Lycra tights, has not been immune from weaving and designer wizardry. Product names such as Therma Fleece, Drylete, Dry-Fit and Ultrasensor (it used to be Fieldsensor) combine Lycra with moisture-wicking synthetics that offer thermal properties.
In putting together your "ideal layering system" there are some general considerations. What you are seeking to do is create a system that effectively combines elements of breathability, wicking, rapid drying, insulation, durability, wind-resistance and water-repellence while still being lightweight and offering the necessary freedom of movement--all with just a few garments. What particular articles of clothing you choose on a particular day will depend on your intended aerobic level and the anticipated weather conditions.
As you know, the basic intent of a base layer is to manage moisture. Your base layer will be first article of clothing you put on, and the last to come off. Since your own skin will be churning out the perspiration, the goal of this "second skin" is to manage the moisture and move it away from you without trapping your body's heat. The only time that cotton should become a part of your base layer is if you wish to keep cool, not warm, such as in a hot, desert climate where evaporative cooling becomes your friend, not your enemy.
To add to the base layer, you will want to have an arsenal of insulative layer choices and the goal here is a familiar one--provide warmth by creating dead-air space which slows the loss of body heat, as well as continuing to aid in the dissipation of moisture begun by your base layer. Since every person has different insulation requirements depending on body size, weight and fitness level, there is no pat formula for universal success. In general, I have found that the more options you have available, the more fine-tuning you can do and the more comfortable you will be on a daily basis.
For the initial layer or two I prefer pullover garments, but for that final just-in-case insulative layer, I opt for full-zip every time. You'll find that this allows the maximum versatility in ventilation management and makes this last layer much easier to put on and take off. I make sure that all my layers have roomy sleeves so I can push them up or slide them down. I also prefer zip-T necks as they ventilate superbly when open, yet insulate very well when zipped up around the neck. A chest pocket is a worthwhile feature too, as this provides a place to tuck a snack, a notebook, or some sunscreen.
Finally, you'll top the entire ensemble off with a thin windproof, water-resistant layer. You want this layer to breathe like crazy, yet not be so porous that rain runs through it like floodwaters through a leaking dike. I always look for jackets that are bright as well, since chances are you will be wearing them on dark and stormy days. I really appreciate the fact that a driver might see what he is hitting just before impact if I am at least making a loud visibility statement.
When selecting your shell
jacket and pants, be sure that they offer enough room to accommodate layers
underneath. The roomier the cut, the better the ventilation possibilities--no
need to wear a garment that looks as if it could house the entire city of
Ease-of-use cannot be stressed enough. If your layering system is a pain to take on and off, chances are you won't adjust the layers as frequently as you should and that defeats the purpose of layering all-together.
Why do I need all this
fancy stuff just to go running, blading or biking? Fair question. Like the
introduction of Gore-Tex years ago, all this fabric and fiber mumbo jumbo has
its skeptics, but they are fast falling by the wayside. You don't have to opt
for this aerobic function / fashion statement, but why on earth would you not
want to? It works and it works leagues better than anything that has come
before. With an appropriate layering system of advanced materials, weather is
no longer a discomfort or nuisance--its just a pleasurable change of pace.
Underwear Or
Outerwear?
Making Sense of All the Fibers.
Outfitting yourself with long underwear used to be such a simple thing. However, with so many confounded layer thicknesses and fabric weaves and types added to the mix the lines defining where underwear ends and outerwear begins are no longer clear. This guide to selling underwear should help you cut through the layers and get right down to the essentials-meeting your expectations of staying warm and dry.
Weighing In
Thick or thin, special weaves or not, the primary intent of a base layer /
underwear is to manage moisture (wick or transport perspiration away from your
skin) while adding a degree of insulation. How much insulation you will want
depends on how cold the environment will be coupled with your anticipated level
of activity.
In general, underwear is offered in three weights: lightweight for high aerobic activity and moderately cool temperatures; midweight for optimum versatility, warmth and wicking when backpacking, fly fishing, skiing, snowshoeing or hunting on the move in cold temperatures; or expedition weight for high warmth when activity or movement is limited and the temperatures are quite frigid.
Dispelling Myths
Regarding Cotton
Cotton does not insulate; never has, never will. If you are still clinging to
an old cotton union suit as underwear, do yourself a favor and only wear it to
bed, never outdoors. The only time that cotton should become a part of your
base layer is if you wish to keep cool, not warm.
Regarding Polypropylene
Polypropylene (the original synthetic fiber for underwear) does not wick or
absorb moisture. Polypro is, you see, water hating or hydrophobic, and cannot
wick or transport moisture without help. With no outer or second clothing layer
to absorb moisture, your perspiration can puddle right next to the skin. Yes,
it's true that your body heat will "force" water vapor through polypro,
but this is not wicking, no matter who argues the point--it's evaporation and
even under the best of circumstances, evaporation can only dispell so much
moisture build-up.
As for solid performance at a very economical price, polypropylene is a superb value and will keep you warm and dry without breaking the bank. Just don't forget to place a wool or fleece sweater or shirt on top of your undies to serve as a wick to pull moisture away from your skin. New microbials (bacteria hating / smell eliminating) weaves of polypro are better than ever so no one can point a finger at you claiming you stink--at least not because of your underwear.
A Synthetic Fit
When fitting synthetic underwear, opt for snug and close-fitting, but not
constricting. If you fit your tops and bottoms too loosely, they won't wick or
transport moisture efficiently away from your skin and you'll wonder where you
lost the performance you heard you'd be getting.
There are exceptions to every rule, so be sure that you understand the manufacturer's individual fit instructions. One such exception would be the nylon-based Transport EC2 underwear from Terramar. Molecularly enhanced function improves wicking and moisture evaporation and allows for a moisture transfer process that doesn't require the fabric to actually touch the skin to work. What this means is that the fit can be loose and comfy.
From Basics to Blends
Bicomponent knits such as polyester / wool or polypropylene / wool blends work
to provide wicking and insulative properties in one layer-the side facing your
skin is water-hating while the side away from your skin is water-loving and
pulls moisture through. The one drawback to this approach is that because of
the wool, the underwear takes longer to dry.
Magic Through Chemistry
Chemically treated polyesters such as Capilene, Thermal Dynamics and MTS are
often blended with Lycra for stretch and better fit performance, and nylon for
durability. By itself, polyester doesn't manage moisture well at all, but when
treated with a water-loving chemical process, moisture is encouraged to migrate
through the fabric to the outer surface where it can evaporate. The trouble is,
the chemical washes out over the months and after a year or two of hard use,
your underwear can end up feeling flat and clammy.
Variations On A Theme
A variation on chemical altering is MontBell's DriOn with O.F.T. (available
through Lands End). DriOn is made with a molecularly altered polyester yarn so
the treatment won't wash out and relies on an electrostatic field to
"bounce moisture" along the fabric thereby increasing evaporation.
O.F.T. stands for Odor Fighting Thread and while I wouldn't toss the
antiperspirant just yet, I have found that it does seem to minimize, ever so
slightly, the retention of odor that many synthetic underwear are infamous for.
Weaving In the Function
Another construction approach is to alter polyester structurally, creating
weaves and shapes that actually encourage the polyester to absorb water and
"pull" the moisture away from your skin. Underwear constructed of
Thermax, CoolMax and Thermastat are all common brand names, dry very quickly,
insulate very well and feel super soft, however they too have their downsides.
For one, the process isn't cheap and it is possible, if your perspiration level
is very high, for these fabrics to absorb so much water that they get saturated
and stop functioning, leaving you feeling like a damp sponge.
The Best of Both Worlds
Malden Mills has brought together the best of both chemical and structurally
altered polyester and created their own fabrications dubbed BiPolar 100
(midweight) and BiPolar 200 (expedition weight) with the intent of wicking
better and offer more warmth for the weight than comparable underwear. BiPolar
also offers a soft, warm and cushy feel against the skin and many of you will
be inclined to wear it both as underwear and a comfy outer layer.
Going Natural
New weaves and precision cutting tools have virtually eliminated the age-old,
and well deserved reputation wool had earned as being heavy and scratchy. Today's
woolen underwear has a kinder and gentler feel while still performing as an
excellent insulator even when wet. Since wool is also made of protein and
keratin (sulfur-containing fibrous proteins), sweat is neutralized so bacteria
growth is inhibited.
Meshing Performance
Some companies, such as Wiggy's, have opted for a mesh construction for the
base layer. The intent is to create a base layer that enhances moisture
transport to outer layers, thereby keeping the body's skin dryer and,
consequently, warmer. While it does work quite well, the pattern it leaves on
your skin after an hour or two of wearing a pack is, at best, an interesting
conversation piece.
Don't Compromise
Performance
While underwear can very often be used as outerwear and worn as a second or
third layer, the only way it will work as a moisture management tool is as a
first layer. That said, you need to remember that wearing cotton briefs under
your undies will add an unpleasant chill to the thermal equation.
Contributed
By: Michael Hodgson
Michael Hodgson is a an
award-winning journalist and author of numerous books including Camping for
Dummies, Compass and Map Navigator, and Facing the Extreme. He is a volunteer
instructor for the American Red Cross, Nevada County Sheriff's Search & Rescue
team and was a former mountain guide. Michael is well-known for his sense of
humor and eagerness to try anything once in the pursuit of a really good story.
His friends remain amazed that he can still walk. He has partnered with his
journalist-wife, Therese Iknoian, on four web sites: his own www.AdventureNetwork.com, plus www.GearTrends.com, www.TotalFitnessNetwork.com, and www.SNEWSnet.com
Winter Sleeping Bags
Features to look for before
buying.
To stay really warm, designers generally agree, with few modifications proprietary to each manufacturer, that a cold weather bag must have the following features: zipper draft tubers and shoulder collars, ergonomic hoods that cup and insulate without being claustrophobic, and a temperature rating of zero or below (in the winter it is far better to err on the side of warmth).
What insulation do designers prefer? Believe it or not, the response was virtually unanimous. Down, with a 650 power-fill rating is best for weight to warmth ratio and for longevity and would be the perfect insulation if it could retain its loft when wet. Unfortunately, down is useless when wet. Synthetics are best if you are worried about moisture compromising the insulation --Lite Loft, Primaloft 2, Polarguard HV, Polarguard 3D (more expensive but very soft and lofty) and Lamalite (heavy, stiff and bulky, but it works well even when soaked) are most often mentioned as favored insulations in winter bags.
How should you buy a winter bag in terms of sizing? Buy it long. Most experienced mountaineers recommend chucking regular sized bags and opting for bags that offer at least an extra 8 to 10 inches of space at the foot once you're nestled comfortably inside. That's so there will be adequate space to store cameras, water, boots and such--items for which freezing would be a detriment to either you or their performance. In addition, bags with a wider cut can offer more warmth. While a narrower bag (small volume) may be more efficient if you sleep naked or in a single layer of underwear, a wider bag (large volume) will allow you the ability to add clothing to yourself without constricting the bag.
For most people, however, that's not a viable approach, which is why some manufacturers, including Cascade Designs, Mountain Hardwear and Marmot offer the system approach. This type of program allows you to purchase the bag you want and then if, and I do mean if you decide at some point you want a bag that is a bit warmer, you can purchase an upgrade and zip it in or slide it in (depending on the manufacturer's specific design features), adding up to 20 degrees of additional warmth.
"Testing instruments such as the copper mannequin provide clo data using a very controlled environment. The mannequin is a fixed size and does not roll. The comparative data that's collected is great for evaluating the comparative insulating power of bags used by the mannequin," adds Williams, "but how does it address the variables of body size (a small body in a large bag) or movement (nighttime rollers who constantly crush insulation), metabolism, and the other factors of the field?"
Contributed
By: Michael Hodgson
Michael Hodgson is a an
award-winning journalist and author of numerous books including Camping for
Dummies, Compass and Map Navigator, and Facing the Extreme. He is a volunteer
instructor for the American Red Cross, Nevada County Sheriff's Search &
Rescue team and was a former mountain guide. Michael is well-known for his
sense of humor and eagerness to try anything once in the pursuit of a really
good story. His friends remain amazed that he can still walk. He has partnered
with his journalist-wife, Therese Iknoian, on four web sites: his own www.AdventureNetwork.com, plus www.GearTrends.com, www.TotalFitnessNetwork.com, and www.SNEWSnet.com
How To Buy Sleeping Bags
Features To Covet
Variables
To Consider : An
Adventure Network Truth from the gear guru himself, Michael Hodgson:
Temperature ratings are not guarantees of warmth. It is not all that for people
to judge the minimum comfort limit of an identical sleeping bag up to 20
degrees apart. Even without the variables of environmental factors, clothing
worn, food eaten, pads used, body size, fitness, etc., the perception of
'comfort' varies wildly.
Points To Consider When Comparing Bags
Sleeping Bag
Systems
Spanning the temperatures with
layers
Bag systems (bags with several layers you can add or pull off) have become more visible, but they do beg the question of actual performance versus acceptable compromise. After all, isn't a specific bag for a specific temperature and use far better and of greater value to you?
While manufacturers don't deny that bag systems are a compromise they assert that for many it is an intelligent compromise, and I agree. If you have a limited budget and are not at all sure if you might need a warmer or lighter bag as some point in the next year or two, you might want to consider buying into the system concept.
Sure, a specific bag that attacks a specific use is better than a system approach. After all, a system will generally weigh more and be more bulky. However, not everyone can afford the extra bags that might be needed. I have six different bags myself (4 down, 2 synthetic) and I could probably argue the case that I need a couple more.
For most people, however, that's not a viable approach, which is why some manufacturers, including Cascade Designs, Mountain Hardwear and Marmot offer the system approach. This type of program allows you to purchase the bag you want and then if, and I do mean if you decide at some point you want a bag that is a bit warmer, you can purchase an upgrade and zip it in or slide it in (depending on the manufacturer's specific design features), adding up to 20 degrees of additional warmth.
Sleeping Bag Temperature Ratings
Sorting through the confusion.
Not too long ago, while in
According to Fred Williams, founder and past president of Moonstone, temperature ratings as they are currently used are pure bunk and should be abandoned.
"It is not all that uncommon to have users judge the minimum comfort limit of an identical sleeping bag up to 20 degrees apart. I know of at least one case where two users judged the same sleeping bag more than 30 degrees apart!" says Williams. "Even without the variables of environmental factors, clothing worn, food eaten, pads used, body size, fitness, etc., the perception of 'comfort' varies wildly."
"Testing instruments such as the copper mannequin provide clo data using a very controlled environment. The mannequin is a fixed size and does not roll. The comparative data that's collected is great for evaluating the comparative insulating power of bags used by the mannequin," adds Williams, "but how does it address the variables of body size (a small body in a large bag) or movement (nighttime rollers who constantly crush insulation), metabolism, and the other factors of the field?"
Gary Schaezlein, owner of Western Mountain Sports, manufacturers of Western Mountaineering down sleeping bags agrees with Williams wholeheartedly.
"We just try to be honest with what we are putting out and provide for our customer in the worst of scenarios, not the most optimistic," says Schaezlein. "In fact several years ago, we were copper mannequin tested and found our ratings were 20 degrees too warm--our 20 degree bag tested to 0 degrees for example. The bottom line with a bag is it must keep you warm."
Hallelujah to that! Moonstone also reports that they overfill their bags to ensure warmth. Wise field advise that I have heard dispensed over the years is that you can always unzip a bag if you are too warm, but you're going to have a problem trying to add more down or insulation if the bag's too cold. Of course, this doesn't mean you want to buy a bag that you will be sweltering in 90% of the time either.
One company, when asked how they were rating their bags, went so far as to state that they had their bags tested by the copper mannequin a number of years ago, and simply extrapolated the information into their current line.
Of course, those companies who choose to be more optimistic with their temperature ratings often come out ahead when you only catalogue-compare price, stuff size, temperature rating and weight. As any knowledgable retailer will tell you, as long as you know how to compare bags properly, temperature ratings are of little significance and merely serve as a starting point or a place of reference for the eventual purchase--hopefully an educated one.
The first word of caution from Williams is "don't get too caught up in the loft game because some insulations pack more insulating punch per unit thickness than others."
Indeed, tests conducted at
Because of all the confusion, a number of heavy hitters in the industry, including Cascade Designs, Sierra Designs, REI, Marmot and 3M insulations, have banded together to attempt to hammer out an unbiased, meaningful, understandable and standardized rating system. Don't expect anything to happen in the next year however, since not everyone in the industry agrees that standardized temperature ratings is a good or even achievable idea.
What, then, are the most
important criteria to consider when buying a bag? Look at the foot section, hood area
and draft tube. How are they designed? Are there any obvious cold spots? How do
they compare with the other bag(s)? How much insulation is in the bag? Consider
that bigger bags require more insulation to provide equal insulating qualities
as smaller or more narrow cut bags. On down bags, do the compartments feel firm
( a good sign that prevents cold spots forming since down shift is minimized)
or soft and fluid (a poor sign since the down is free to 'fluidly' move around
the tube creating cold spots--only exception are those bags intended for the
user to be able to shift down from top to bottom to adjust for temperature
fluctuations).
Warm Winter
Camping
Tips and Techniques
Thinking of turning your winter jaunt into an overnight? Could be a lot of fun, if you know how to stay warm. Use the following tips as your guide to nocturnal heat generation and retention:
Hypothermia Facts
If you are outdoors enjoying your favorite sport, you presumably do not intend to jeopardize your life. Hypothermia may be a new word to you, but it is the only word that describes the rapid, progressive mental and physical collapse accompanying the chilling of the inner core of the human body. Hypothermia is caused by exposure to cold, aggravated by wet, wind, and exhaustion. It is the number one killer of outdoor recreationalists
EXPOSURE AND EXHAUSTION
The moment your body begins to lose heat faster than it produces it, you
are undergoing exposure. Two things happen:
Either response drains your energy reserves. The only way to stop the drain is to reduce the degree of exposure.
HYPOTHERMIA
If exposure continues until your energy reserves are exhausted:
This is hypothermia. Your internal temperature is sliding downward. Without treatment, this slide leads to stupor, collapse, and death.
If you can not stay dry and warm under existing weather conditions, using the clothes you have with you, do whatever is necessary to be less exposed.
Persistent or violent shivering is a clear warning that you
are on the verge of hypothermia. MAKE
Make camp while you still have a reserve of energy. Allow for the fact that exposure greatly reduces your normal endurance. You may think you are doing fine when the fact that you are exercising is the only thing preventing your going into hypothermia. If exhaustion forces you to stop, however brief:
Make the best protected and experienced member of your party responsible for calling a halt before the least protected member becomes exhausted or goes into violent shivering.
If your group is exposed to WIND, COLD, OR WET, think hypothermia. Watch yourself and others for the symptoms:
The victim may deny he/she is in trouble. Believe the symptoms, not the person. Even mild symptoms demand immediate treatment.
Loss of body heat to the water, is a major cause of deaths in boating accidents. Often the cause of death is listed as drowning; but, often the primary cause is hypothermia. It should also be noted that alcohol lowers the body temperature around two to three degrees by dialateing the blood vesels. Do not drink alcohol around cold water. The following chart shows the effects of hypothermia in water:
WATER TEMPERATURE / EXHAUSTION / SURVIVAL TIME
32.5 degrees............................Under 15
min........Under 15 TO 45 min.
32.5 to 40................................15 to 30 min.........30 to 90 min.
40 to 50...................................30 to 60 min.........1 to 3 hrs.
50 to 60...................................1 to 2 hrs..............1 to 6 hrs.
60 to 70...................................2 to 7 hrs..............2 to 40 hrs.
70 to 80...................................3 to 12 hrs............3 hrs. to
indefinite
Over 80...................................Indefinite...............Indefinite
PFD's (personal flotation devices / better known as life jackets) can increase survival time because of the insulating value they provide. In water less than 50 degrees you should wear a wet suit or dry suit to protect more of the body.
The body loses heat in five ways: Respiration, Evaporation, Conduction, Radiation and Convection.
RESPIRATION: Heat escapes when air is exhaled. This can be reduced by covering the mouth and nose area with wool or a bandana.
EVAPORATION: Perspiration evaporates from the skin and moisture from the lungs contributes to heat loss by the body. Control the amount of evaporation by wearing clothing that can be ventilated or taken off. Wear clothing that will not absorb water, but will breathe. So you can control the cooling effect of evaporation.
CONDUCTION: Sitting on the ground, snow, touching cold equipment, or being rained upon are all examples of how heat can be lost through conduction. If you become wet a large amount of body heat is lost rapidly. Perspiration or rain should never be allowed to saturate your clothing which can reduce their insulating values. Wear clothing that will keep you warm even if it is wet, such as wool or some of the new synthetic materials (polypropylene, polorguard, fiberfill, quollofil) have good wet characteristics. Sit or sleep on a closed-cell insulating pad.
RADIATION: Radiation causes the largest heat loss from uncovered skin, particularly the head, neck, and hands. It is important to cover these areas in keeping warm and preventing further heat loss.
CONVECTION: The primary function of clothing is to keep a layer of warm air next to the skin, but allows water vapor (perspiration) to pass outward. The body continually warms this layer of air close to the body. A wet suit uses this same theory, but when a person falls into the water you are chilled for a few moments before the water next to your skin is warmed by your body. A dry suit has less initial shock because water does not get inside to start with so the clothing you wear under the dry suit captures the air to retain your warmth. Heat is lost rapidly with the slightest breeze unless you wear a nylon or gortex shell over your clothing to prevent the warm air from being lost. The cooling effect of wind chill is equal to that of much lower temperatures due to the increased evaporation and convection. You must have wind protection and good insulating value (dead air space) for your clothing to retain your body heat at a safe level.
Pre-Trip Planning for Outdoor Adventures
The following is a suggested plan, you must modify it for your specific needs and the terrain that you will be traversing. THINK SAFETY FIRST.
(A.) Make a check list of the items to carry in your pack.
Make two sets of check boxes, check the first box when you choose the item and then when you pack it, check off the second box. Go over each item carefully before you pack it to insure its reliability, quality and the quantity. Think through your trip with the checklist.
Pack things in logistical order of need. Practice packing and unpacking. Make sure your load is evenly distributed. Time spent before you go will make the trip more enjoyable and make you more aware of your pack and its contents.
(B.) Check all your equipment carefully, at least twice:
(C.) Take the time to research your destination/activity:
(D.) Practice packing, whether going for a day or a week:
(E.) Do not overlook special items you may need:
(F.) Let a responsible person know your itinerary: